Heat damage. Nothing scared me more than those two words when I first started my natural hair journey. I spent years growing out my heat damaged hair and I was terrified of having to start all over. I didn’t use direct heat for well over a year because I was convinced that the only way I could have healthy, bouncy curls was to avoid heat at all costs.
I actually finally started to retain length and see my hair flourish when I started to incorporate heat and found a natural hair salon to call home. I go to The Coily Collective, a salon in New York City, for trims and silk presses. The salon, founded by colorist and curl specialist Jaxcee, specializes in doing cuts, color, and all types of styles on kinky, coily, and curly hair without compromising hair health.
Heat is not the enemy and there is a lot of fear mongering and misinformation in the natural hair community about heat styling.
I spoke to Jaxcee and stylist Shay Gomez — who cuts my hair and did my hair for my wedding — about heat damage, how to avoid it, and the products they use on their clients.
What is heat damage? Is it possible to repair it?
“Heat damage is when the bonds within the hair’s keratin break from excessive use of heat, transforming the hair structure,” according to Shay. “When the cuticle — outer layer of the strand that acts as a protectant or shield — breaks, it exposes the cortex. The cortex is where the keratin protein lives determining the shape and strength of the hair.” Signs of heat damage include dehydrated, brittle hair that’s lacking in luster, a change in texture, and loss of elasticity.
A lot of products make miracle claims of reversing heat damage, but it’s not that simple. “You can repair some milder forms of heat damage by using bond building treatments like Redken Acid Bonding Concentrate or Olaplex,” Jaxcee says. If your hair is severely heat damaged, the best course of action is cutting off the damage.
How do you avoid heat damage on natural hair?
You can get heat damage from any type of direct heat styling but some tools and methods are riskier than others. “I tell all of my clients to stay away from round brush blow drying. The tension and heat needed to make natural hair silky smooth causes a lot of trauma to our hair,” Jaxcee says. “Your best bet for maintaining a silk press regimen would be using a comb attachment on your blow dryer and then following up with a flatiron to achieve a smooth result. This works better for natural hair because there’s a lot less tension on your hair while it’s wet. Also it’s really important to invest in an amazing heat protectant leave-in.”
Shay, who regularly silk presses my hair, says understanding your curls and proper technique are key to avoiding heat damage. “To avoid and prevent heat damage on your natural hair, you want to analyze and understand the state of your hair, to determine whether or not heat styling would be appropriate,” she says. “Remember that hotter is not better. Most heat styling tools go up to 450 Fahrenheit; depending on the texture of your strands (width of a single strand; fine medium, or thick), and your section, you will be able to achieve your desired look at temperatures below.” It’s also important to not reapply heat if your hair starts to revert to its natural state; there are ways to maintain a straighter, stretched style without reapplying heat, like rocking a braid or twist out.
What are your favorite heat protectants to use on yourself and clients?
Jaxcee and Shay have a rotation of heat protectants they use in the salon. “Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame is one of the best. It’s extremely softening while being light weight. Olaplex No. 6 is great because it’s strengthening and moisturizing,” according to Jaxcee. Olaplex, one of my favorite hair products, and Redken are also on Shay’s list. “Some of my favorite heat protectants that I use daily in the salon are Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame Heat Protectant Leave-in Cream, Olaplex No. 6, and Briogeo Farewell Frizz Blow Dry Protection and Heat Cream,” she says.
What are some ways to take care of natural hair between heat styling to ensure it stays healthy?
Even though I do more silk presses in the winter, I know it’s important to give my curls a break, too. “I’m a big fan of making sure that you balance heat styling with natural styling and protective styling,” Jaxcee says. “One week, I’ll do a blow dry. I will make sure I do a really hydrating moisture mask and then perhaps do either a twist out or a braid out [the next week]. This allows the bonds of your hair to rest and recuperate from the flattening that occurs when heat styling.”
Shay offers similar advice. “In between heat styling, you want to make sure that you are treating your strands like it is cashmere. I recommend performing a bond-repairing treatment, which is going to help keep your strands strong and structured,” she says. “Follow up with a deep conditioning mask with assistance from a steamer allowing the hair to better absorb moisture. After your treatments, choose a protective style that helps retain hydration, low manipulation styles give your hair a break. It is also imperative to routinely trim your ends, to ensure hair health.”
The beauty of natural hair is its versatility. You can switch up your style with heat and still maintain healthy bouncy curls as long as you have a good routine and quality products. Also, it’s important to take advice from skilled, licensed stylists.
Do you heat style your hair? Share your favorite products and tips for maintaining healthy hair in the comments!
This blog post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission. Please note that I only recommend products that I personally use and believe in.
[…] possible to wear straight styles without putting harsh chemicals on your body and without heat damage. Women with tighter hair types are often fed that notion that their hair is innately difficult, […]