The natural hair texture chart has the community in a chokehold. The chart, which goes from 1A — straight hair — to 4C — the most coily hair — has been around since the 90s and is unfortunately one of the first things people learn about when they start the natural hair journey. But the hair type chart is outdated and won’t really help you figure out how to care for your hair. Beyond perpetuating texturism, the chart really doesn’t give you guidance on how to care for your specific strands.
Your curl pattern is just one characteristic about your hair. Here are some factors to think about when learning to care for your hair that aren’t the natural hair texture chart:
Your actual hair type, not your curl pattern.
The hair typing chart has become so ubiquitous that it is common place to use the phrase “hair type” when actually referring to curl pattern. Your hair type or texture refers to the diameter or thickness of individual strands of hair. Fine hair has thinner individual strands. Because of this, fine hair is more fragile and prone to breakage and damage from heat styling and chemical treatments. Coarse hair, on the other hand, is characterized by thicker individual strands. Coarse hair can be more resilient to heat and chemical styling, but also prone to frizz and can require extra care to maintain moisture.
I have fine hair, so I am extra gentle when detangling my hair and also make sure to do protein treatments and use heat protectant to keep my strands strong and protected when I get silk presses.
Scalp health
A healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. Factors like dryness, oiliness, dandruff, and other scalp conditions can affect your hair’s health and growth. Understanding your scalp’s needs and incorporating a proper cleansing and moisturizing routine can address any underlying issues and promote optimal hair growth. But, it’s always important to go to an actual dermatologist if you’re dealing with a chronic scalp issue that isn’t solved by shampooing and oiling.
Ingredients your hair likes
Having the same curl pattern as someone doesn’t mean your hair is going to like the same products or ingredients. That’s why blindly following influencers — who are getting paid to promote a product — is a bad idea.
My hair loves marshmallow root, slippery elm, aloe, and coconut oil. But if I ever do a hot oil treatment with castor oil, my hair becomes stiff and dry. When you find a product that works for you, pay attention to what the ingredients are by reading the label.
The beauty and versatility of natural hair can’t be contained to one chart. Don’t let an antiquated system — that was created to sell products — hold you back from loving your hair.
Have unused natural hair products that don’t work for you? Join my natural hair product swap group on Geneva!
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